After introducing the pared back Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues its strikingly minimalist approach with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye.
The watch is available in two equally stunning variants – the Falcon’s Eye with its brilliant blue dial and white gold case, and the Ox’s Eye that’s matched with a reddish-brown dial encased in red gold.
Stone dials were the in thing during the 1970s, perhaps best embodied by the vintage Rolex Datejust/Day-Date models (that had stone dials) of that era. With vintage making a comeback, stone dials are also enjoying a resurgence in popularity. But none thus far have implemented them as beautifully as Moser has here – the brand’s signature minimalist aesthetic provides the perfect canvas for the unique stone dials to be admired.
I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is the more contemporary one, with a modern blue dial and white gold case. It is also the more stylistically versatile of the two. However, there’s a je ne sais quoi about the Ox’s Eye that is deeply appealing – it feels quintessentially 1970s, possessing an old-school charm that’s rarely seen in today’s watches.
The Tiger’s Eye is based on an existing reference, the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials, but still quintessentially Moser, then the Tiger’s Eye will certainly fit the bill.
Priced at US$75,900, the new Tiger’s Eye costs slightly more than the standard Endeavour Tourbillon Concept (if it can even be called that), but the increase is justified considering the semi-precious nature of its dial, the difficulty of sourcing stones with appealing parallel lines, and the complexity in transforming the material into dials thereafter. And as the stone dials are natural, each watch will technically be unique.
Eye of the Tiger
The dial of the Tiger’s Eye is crafted from a variety of microcrystalline quartz, which is formed from amosite. Its shimmering look is the result of a process known as pseudomorphosis, whereby the fibres of amosite are partially replaced by silica, which are then positioned in delicate layers.
In typical Moser fashion, the dial has been erased of logos and indices. Despite its lack of elements, the dial is still particularly eye-catching, with the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock providing a captivating display of horology.
Beating inside the Tiger Eye is the in-house calibre HMC 804 movement, which features the Straumann double hairspring found in Moser’s top of the line watches. Both hairsprings are superimposed above each other, but arranged in opposite manners such that each spring’s centre of gravity mirrors the other’s. According to Moser, this reduces friction and results in improved accuracy and isochronism. The movement has 3 days of power reserve, as well as the flying tourbillon complication.
The movement also is adorned with a 18k red gold rotor, and decorated in usual Moser fashion with Cotes de Geneve of alternating widths, perlage, and polished bevelled bridges.
Key Facts and Price
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye
Ref. 1804-0222 (Falcon’s Eye)
Ref. 1804-0401 (Ox’s Eye)
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.2 mm
Material: White gold (Falcon’s Eye) or red gold (Ox’s Eye)
Movement: HMC 804
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Limited edition: 50 pieces for each variant
Availability: From H.Moser & Cie. online and authorised retailers
For more, visit h-moser.com.